TECHNICAL PAPERS
May 1, 1999

Solitary Waves on a Cretan Beach

Publication: Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 125, Issue 3

Abstract

In this paper, we describe experiments and computer simulations of the run-up and return of a solitary wave traveling over shallowing water and then onto a dry beach backed by a vertical wall. This topography is similar to that of beaches on the north coast of Crete, where narrow coastal plains are backed by steeply rising mountains. The experiments show that the solitary wave collapses onto the dry beach without curling over. It then flows to the vertical wall where it rises up, splashes, curls over, and finally returns as a turbulent bore. On reaching the original water's edge, the bore produces a zig-zag surface perturbation. The simulations reproduce the experiments accurately.

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Go to Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal, and Ocean Engineering
Volume 125Issue 3May 1999
Pages: 145 - 155

History

Published online: May 1, 1999
Published in print: May 1999

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Dept. of Mathematics, Monash Univ., Clayton Victoria 3168, Australia.
Dept. of Mathematics, Monash Univ., Clayton Victoria 3168, Australia.

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