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Dec 31, 2015

Circulation Kinematics in Nonlinear Laboratory Waves

Publication: Coastal Engineering 1986

Abstract

A weakly nonlinear solution is presented for the two-dimensional wave kinematics forced by a generic wavemaker of variable-draft. The solution is valid for both piston and hinged wavemakers of variabledraft that may be double articulated. The second-order propagating waves generated by a planar wave board are composed of two components; viz., a Stokes second-order wave and a second-harmonic wave forced by the wavemaker which travels at a different speed. A previously neglected time-independent solution that is required to satisfy a kinematic boundary condition on the wavemaker as well as a mixed boundary condition on the free surface is included for the first time. A component of the time-independent solution is found to accurately estimate the mean return current (correct to second-order) in a closed wave flume. This mean return current is usually estimated from kinematic considerations by a conservation of mass principle

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Go to Coastal Engineering 1986
Coastal Engineering 1986
Pages: 381 - 395

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Published online: Dec 31, 2015

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Tae-In Kim
Asst. Prof., Dept. of Civil Engrng., Korean Military Academy, Seoul, Korea 130-09.
Robert T. Hudspeth
Prof., Ocean Engrng. Program, Dept. of Civil Engrng., Oregon State University, Corvallis, Oregon 97331.
W. Sulisz
Scientist, Inst. of Hydroengineering, Polish Academy of Sciences, Cystersow 11, 80-953 Gdansk, Poland.

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